Last summer, inspired by a cherished tradition, I finally set foot in the Baltics for the very first time. For the past three years, my childhood bestie and I have eagerly reunited to celebrate our mutual love for travel, even though the vast Atlantic separates us—she on the East Coast of the U.S. and me in northern Spain. Our previous adventures in Spain and Morocco felt natural while I was living in those lands, but in 2024, we craved something new—enter Latvia.
I must admit, my journey began with an exhaustive trip down the YouTube rabbit hole. I spent countless hours watching travel videos, letting my curiosity guide me as I crafted a ten-day itinerary with both carefully planned experiences and room for serendipity. The result was a fun-filled road trip that delivered surprises at every turn.
Latvia, this small yet impressive Baltic gem, exceeded every expectation in the most pleasing and unexpected ways. Its lush landscapes, deep cultural roots, and the kindness of its people made every moment a discovery. I was truly spellbound by the balance of history, nature, and modern charm that Latvia offers.
Here are ten things I absolutely loved about our time at this enchanting destination:
1. The Elegance of the Capital
Riga’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site where history and modernity politely dance to their own rhythm. Wandering its cobblestone streets polished by the march of time, you get the sense that you’re walking through pages of history. Every medieval building, pastel facade, and colorful square tells a story of a city that has evolved yet never lost its soul. From the Three Brothers, the oldest houses in the city, to the iconic House of the Blackheads—formerly the cherished hub of a prestigious guild of unmarried merchants—Riga is adorned with gargoyles, quirky statues, gorgeous architecture, and mythological figures. The impressive Freedom Monument stands tall, a symbol of Latvia’s independence. Branching off of the main square, Riga’s narrow postcard streets are embellished with brightly colored flowerbeds. The aroma of mouthwatering pastries leads to hidden cafes that await discovery. For me, Riga’s old town had an irresistible sense of place.
2. Gauja National Park
Exploring a small segment of this vast national park, we were immersed in a verdant tranquility where time had no relevance. We hiked through dense, whispering forests and stumbled across overgrown trails leading to ancient ruins from a forgotten past. Highlights included gazing out at Paradise Hill’s panoramic view of the Gauja valley and deep ravines and gliding across the Gaya River in a cable car high above the treetops. Gauija National Park is Mother Earth’s reminder of nature’s enduring beauty and its power to quietly heal and inspire.
3. The Medieval Charm of Cēsis
Cēsis has a history of more than 800 years and is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the Baltics. Its narrow, mostly cobblestoned streets wind past modest, weathered wooden houses, and a short walk takes you from the half-ruined 13th-century castle to Latvia’s oldest brewery. Walking through the historic center was like being dropped into a storybook. We wandered into whimsical shops and traditional bakeries that still honor and maintain the age-old methods of their craft. Cēsis has always been at the heart of Latvian culture, historical heritage, and creativity, and in 2017 it received the prestigious EDEN European Cultural Destination Award. In sharp contrast to the medeival town center, the Cēsis Vidzeme Concert Hall stands as a tall testiment to the cities ongoing comitmetn to the arts. It is an 800-seat regional multifunctional music and culture centre and hosts classical and contemporary music concerts, theatre performances, film screenings, art exhibitions, seminars and conferences. We had a scrumptious lunch at “Epikūra Dārzs” located on the 6th floor of the Concert Hall with a wonderful bird’s eye view of Cēsis. The surrounding landscape offered a serene backdrop that enrichee the town’s aesthetic .
4. The Coastal Beauty of Saulkrasti
Just 50 kilometers from Riga, Saulkrasti is a coastal masterpiece along the Gulf of Riga. This pristine sandy beach, sculpted by wind and waves, stretches an impressive 17 kilometers. Centuries-old pine trees stand guard over the shore. While taking a dip in the sea, we noticed many small jellyfish about the size of a two-euro coin and whitish-transparent. To our relief, a quick online search informed us that these were not poisonous nor dangerous to humans. We walked the Sunset Forest Trail, a 4-kilometer boardwalk amid the pines above the sandy shoreline. The late summer sun took its time and lingered in its glorious hues before setting beyond the horizon. It was spectacular.
5. Majestic Castles
Delving a bit into Latvia’s rich tapestry of history and legends, we were amazed by its many castles. There are about 140 medieval castles in Latvia but we only had time for four: Turaida Castle, Sigulda’s New Castle, the Castle of the Livonian Order, and Cēsis Castle. Each of these deserves its own entry, so stay tuned, as I’ll be writing more about them soon.
6. The Delicious Vegetarian Cuisine
As a vegetarian, finding food options that are tasty and healthy when traveling can be a challenge. I always use an app to locate vegan and vegetarian eateries at the destinations I visit. I was thrilled to discover a variety of fresh, plant-based options at many of the restaurants where we ate. The dishes were delicious and nutritious, and the presentation consistently showed attention to detail. From beetroot salads to wild mushroom risotto, every meal—breakfast, lunch, and dinner—was a celebration for my taste buds. The creativity and flavors in the vegetarian offerings were truly impressive. And the bread! Some of the best bread I’ve ever tasted, and I’ve eaten a lot of bread in my life. Let me say that one of the highlights of my gastronomic journey was the traditional Latvian sourdough rye bread, known as rupjmaize. This bread offers a masterful blend of sourness and sweetness, often enhanced with caraway seeds and molasses. This brings me to the desserts. I don’t tend to like refined, sugary desserts anymore. But one look at Latvia’s traditional desserts, and I was tempted enough to risk feeling sugar sick. One of the many that got me hooked on their desserts was the honey cake (Medus kūka), a popular Latvian treat that combines the sweet richness of honey with a tangy sour cream and walnut filling spread between thin layers of cake. It’s a good thing we walked off our meals every day.
7. The Allure of Alternative Wines
One of the world’s most northerly commercial, open-air vineyard, known as Vina kalns (‘wine hill’), is in Latvia. I’m not a wine drinker, generally speaking. I prefer to drink fresh juices or sparkling water, if anything, with my meals. So, discovering Latvia’s non-grape wines was another unexpected joy for my palate due to the variety of choices. You see, in Latvia, winemaking takes an unexpected turn. Grapes often yield the spotlight to a diverse array of unconventional indigenous ingredients, such as roses, lilacs, dandelions, various berries, sour cherries, and herbs. This creative twist genuinely captures the very essence of the local terroir and supports sustainable agricultural practices and family-owned enterprises. My favorites? Dandilion and lilac wines, respectively. These wines were unlike any I’d tried before, and now, I can say that I’m a wine drinker. At least when in Latvia.
8. The Richness of Black Balsam
A visit to the Black Magic Bar introduced us to the traditional Black Balsam, often considered to be the national drink of Latvia. According to tradition, only the Head Liquor Master and two of his apprentices know the exact recipe. Sampling its various flavors, we appreciated its rich, herbal complexity. This iconic Latvian liqueur has a storied history, which I won’t get into now, but here’s a shot glass of it: A pharmacist named Kunze crafted the famous Riga Black Balsam recipe in 1752. The first balsam (herbal extract) was offered as a remedy, so its purpose was medicinal. Riga Black Balsam is made from 24 all-natural ingredients, including 17 botanicals. Aside from the original Black Balsam, there is a variety of pleasing flavors: black currant, cherry, tropical, espresso, and chocolate mint. My favorite flavor? Black currant.
9. Riga’s Splendid Palace
Splendid Palace stands as a timeless treasure in Riga, a cinema that has delighted film lovers since 1923 with its exceptional blend of art and history. As the very first building in Riga built exclusively as a film theater, its Neo-Baroque façade beckons you in, while the interior dazzles with a striking Neo-Rococo design. We were utterly captivated by the vibrant ceiling paintings by Hermanis Grinbergs, which transform the large hall into a veritable work of art.
This iconic cinema made history early on; by 1929, it proudly screened the first sound film in the Baltics, cementing its legacy as a trailblazer in cinematic innovation. In its early days, during the silent film era, visitors were treated to a live, immersive orchestral experience that brought the films to life.
Discovering Splendid Palace was something out of a movie in and of itself. While wandering along the sunset trail in Saulkrasti with my bestie, we met a warm, friendly local, and we instantly connected. She invited us to the release of a Latvian animated film called Straume, and we jumped at the chance. On the afternoon of 29 August, not only were we taken by the magnificance of Splendid Palace, but we were also captivated by the innovative, independent film. We had the honor of meeting the writer and producer, Gints Zilbalodis. Little did we know, Straume — better known internationally as Flow — would go on to win countless awards, including a Golden Globe and an Oscar! We still feel privileged to have been a part of the audience in Latvia at the very beginning of this adorable balck cat’s journey that would soon capture the world’s imagination.
10. The People
When I first arrived in Riga, it was unlike walking through the capital of any other European country. The city, though vibrant, had a uniquely serene rhythm that set it apart. I observed a quiet elegance in the way locals carried themselves. When Latvians walked together and spoke to each other, they maintained a respectful volume and generous personal space. Being an introvert and someone who prefers quietude, I truly appreciated this. Despite their seemingly introverted nature, friendly locals, shopkeepers, and servers readily offered their help if my friend and I struggled with our maps or menus. A subtle reminder that a reserved nature doesn’t always equate to coldness.
Latvians seem to cherish and live by similar values as my own: love of nature, love of the arts, respect of personal space, and an appreciation for fresh, organic cuisine. I found myself surprisingly quite at home. I felt like I’d arrived at a home I’d been searching for. If warm weather and sunshine weren’t so high on my list of life’s comforts, I’d probably relocate to Latvia. Alas, I’ll have to settle for visiting as often as I can during the few ‘weeks’ of summertime, of course.
As I reflect on the things I love about Latvia, I am reminded of the beauty to be found in the unexpected. Each experience we had deepened my appreciation for this remarkable country and culture, leaving me eager to return and take others with me. Now, I invite you to join me on a remarkable journey of curiosity and connection to experience Latvia’s loveliness firsthand this August 2025. For all the enticing details, click the link below. I hope you’ll join me.
Waderfully Yours,
Zani
Founder & Transformative Travel Specialist
Member IGLTA | Accessibility Advocate
